Moving up!

Its important to feel like your climbing is going somewhere. It can be highly demotivating to consistently get shut down on your projects if you are not naturally a fighter. And even those of us hard wired to battle through problems can sometimes feel blah about going back to a wall that brings you no joy. Yesterday will be one of the days I always remember as a reaffirmation of my climbing stoke. Having applied a rigorous diet for over half a year now, and recently taken to serious methodical training, yesterday I climbed at a different level than what i had been able to do thus far.

We met some friends at the crag after having been by the harder areas of climbing at Campo Escola 2000 in Rio de Janeiro. The wall was impressive, inspiring, but frankly a bit intimidating. Nothing looked doable. And so we went on to an easier route "DuDu" a european 6b (pic). We had great fun and as we were leaving we decided heck, lets just mozzie on over and have a go. Strategically choosing a line out of the way of the other climbers there, Jake and I looked at each other with rather less conviction than one usually has while climbing. I got on the line and found the first three hand positions to be rather easy. But I knew the following crimpers would bring me problems. I find in those moments, actually lying to your self overconfidently helps. "you can do this, no problem, just grab that hold." And unwittingly I did. But the lie faded, as my fingertips stuck to a less than 2mm shelf. "Thats not so bad, but the next move will definitely shut you down." I looked over and it really was nasty crossover arms on peanut crimpers and footholds that more resembled pimples on the rock. 

My left hand engaged my right arm swung over as did my body. I engaged my core and gave the next crimper everthing I had. I stuck. "Holy shit whats going on? Nevermind just climb." some three crimpers more and I made it to the first big shelf. And, as these often are on impressive walls, it was shit. Smooth as silk sloppers. Some fumbling around, some down climbing to reposition and bang, I came off the wall and jake and I met in the air at opposite ends of the rope like two blind balerinas. It was ugly, it was painfull, but my mouth was watering to go back up.

These small victories can mean a lot. Especially when its time to train and all you want to do is stay in bed!